Low Water Pressure in the House
Use fixture comparisons, visible aerators and utility information to separate a local restriction from a whole-house supply problem.
Keep guards, panels and safety devices in place. Stop whenever the next action needs tools, live testing, disconnection or access beyond the owner's manual.
Checks you can safely make
- Map the affected fixtures
Compare hot and cold flow at several sinks, a shower and an exterior faucet. One outlet, one temperature and the whole house point to different parts of the system.
- Check the utility status
Ask the water supplier about current work or a neighborhood outage and compare with a nearby property if practical. Note when the pressure change began.
- Clean one accessible aerator
At an affected sink, unscrew only the user-serviceable aerator, catch its small parts, rinse visible debris and reinstall it. Do not alter a pressure regulator.
- Look for leak evidence
With fixtures off, listen for running water and inspect accessible rooms, the meter area and yard for dampness. A moving meter can support a leak report, but do not enter a flooded space.
Common questions
Why is pressure low at only one faucet?
A clogged aerator, local stop valve, supply hose or faucet cartridge is more likely than a whole-house pressure problem.
What incoming pressure is typical?
EPA WaterSense says many fixtures operate best with incoming service pressure around 45 to 60 psi, but local code and system design control the acceptable range.
Sources and review basis
This guide limits itself to visible, non-invasive checks and uses current manufacturer or public-safety guidance.